Turn off, plug out, drop in

A hotel owner friend of mine is frustrated.

“If I see one more person sitting on the terrace with their eyes glued to their bloody iPhone instead of our amazing view, I’ll throw their iPhone off the terrace.”

She’s written this on Facebook – kind of ironic when complaining about technology – but she has a point.

Like many over-35s, I remember an era of travelling when laptops were still too expensive, and heavy, to lug around in a backpack and if you wanted to contact home you used a public phone box. On my first extended backpacking trip I didn’t even know what the internet was. Even by the time email had been integrated into my travel experience, using it required the patience of a saint to search out the one internet cafe in town with a decent dial-up connection and then the ability to type fast enough to send a message before the next power-cut sharply switched the clunky computer screens back to black.

Surrounded by younger travellers in a hostel recently I came face-to-face with a new style of travelling. The young guy beside me leaned over his tablet-screen chatting to friends back home. A girl with a notebook computer the size of a wallet scrolled through TripAdvisor restaurant reviews. Across the room, a couple slouched into chairs opposite each other with eyes glued to their smartphones. They reminded me of an elderly married couple who used to be regulars at a bar I once worked in. Every night they would come into the bar together, order two pints, and then sit in silence facing each other across the scratched veneer of the table while drinking their beer. As if the long years of living together had sucked their conversation dry. There must have been nine travellers in that room but you could have heard a pin drop. The clacketty-clack of keyboard typing was only finally broken by the lone voice of a head-phoned British boy on Skype talking to his mother.

“I’m back in the hostel…Yeah did you see the photos I put up on Facebook? Can you put some more money in my bank account? I’m running out. Don’t forget to say hi to Dad.”

This new tech-heavy era of gadgetry has fundamentally shifted how we travel but I can’t help feeling ambivalence about the convenience it now provides us. If you know what the phrase Poste Restante¹ means, ever made three precious mix-tapes² to keep you going on the road, and once lugged wads of travellers’ cheques³ around your waist in a money belt, this brave new world of high-tech travel may stir the same mix of fascination and unease in you as well.

This is a travel world of tangled cords and chargers in your backpack and never enough power sockets in your hotel room. A travelling life where you’re no longer forced to read that one rubbish crime novel left on the shelf of the hotel book-exchange because your favourite books, music, film and TV programs can follow you wherever you go. Perhaps more significant to this shift in how we now travel is it’s also a world where family and friends can keep tabs on you, wherever you are, at all times.

It’s kind of like you never left home.

New technology has always played its role in changing and moulding our experiences across the years and this isn’t meant as a diatribe against the modern conveniences of travel. Neither is it a starry-eyed remembrance of the ‘good-old-days’ that never were. I don’t want to sound like a backpacker version of Monty Python’s famous ‘Four Yorkshiremen’ skit:

Backpacker one, “Eh, in my day we had to carry rolls of film around with us if we wanted to take a photo and we only had a guidebook to help with planning.”
Backpacker two, “Luxury! We didn’t even have cameras. We had to sketch pictures if we wanted memories of our trip and the only information we got when arriving in a new town was from a one-eyed mute at the train station.”
Backpacker three, “You were lucky to have a one-eyed mute. We got up each morning and chiselled each landscape into a stone tablet that we then had to lug around in our backpacks and the only travel tips we got came from a donkey tethered in the bazaar.”
Backpacker four, “And you try and tell the young people of today that and they won’t believe you.”

But I do worry if our whole sense of wonder and discovery – the sheer joy of being somewhere completely different and not knowing what the hell comes next – is being crushed by the very technology that now makes our travel lives easier.

It’s harder to get properly lost when your smartphone’s Google Maps app can lead you directly to the main sights. It’s more difficult to feel that excited, but slightly bewildered, sense of being very far away and disconnected from normal life when Facebook and Skype allow instant access to your world back home.

And if we’re so intent on bringing home along with us on this ride into the unknown, are we simply relegating the act of travel to a list of sights we can pose ourselves in front of to prove we’ve been?

In Pico Iyer’s 1988 travel masterpiece ‘Video Night in Kathmandu’ he writes “Abroad, we are not ourselves; and as the normal and the novel are transposed, the very things we might shun at home are touched with the glamour of the exotic.”

But if we deny ourselves the pleasure of flinging off our normal home existence in the first place – remain so thoroughly plugged into the world we left behind – we’ll never give ourselves that opportunity to experience the exhilarating, befuddled brilliance that happens when the unfamiliar smacks us in the face. The serendipitous chance encounters and astounding fuck ups we can make when we’re left to flounder and find our way by ourselves out on the road. The sensory overload of India doesn’t have quite the same overwhelming and visceral sense of awe when you can finish the day in your hotel room watching Homeland on your laptop and scrolling through your Facebook news feed to find out Uncle Mike’s going back to the gym this week and your best friend Claire is cooking spaghetti for tea.

I’m not suggesting we should all strike out on the road like Rimbaud; thoroughly doing a disappearing act on our past life to reinvent ourselves anew. But just to switch off from the chattering drone coming out of ‘back there’ for at least a little while. To give ourselves the opportunity and space to become a part of these new landscapes we’re travelling in and capture more than just photos to post on our blog and Facebook page.

By venturing out from normalcy – shrugging off the ropes of everyday chores and career – we’re already allowing ourselves the first step towards experiencing something new. But by taking that further, bigger – scarier – step in opening ourselves up to a time-out from all we know at home, to be fully connected to where we are right now, that experience could become something incredible, something insane, even something profound.

So lower your camera from your face for awhile and just sit and survey the scene. Go get lost in the traffic-jammed chaos of the city streets and wander aimlessly without a map. If on these wanderings you walk past a restaurant that’s packed with locals go in and eat a meal, even if that place is not recommended by 700 other travellers on TripAdvisor. Stop. Checking. Facebook. Every five minutes. And for God’s sake if you go to my friend’s hotel can you please put down your smartphone for a second and appreciate the view.

It’s when we immerse ourselves fully in the moments along the way that you realise why you left the humdrum roundabout of home behind; the sheer, undiluted thrill of being unmoored from life. Cast adrift into a world unknown and full of possibility. There’s not an app for that. Yet.

————————————————————————————————————————————————–

¹An archaic form of receiving correspondence from your loved ones when you had no permanent address. Using paper and a pen, people would write a letter and then mail it to a post office address you had given to them in the hope that you would, at some stage of your travels, be passing near that post office. The post office, if it did indeed receive the letter that had been posted, would then hold it for you for two months. If the happy coincidence of you passing by that same post office occurred in the same time frame of the letter being held there you were able to collect it and receive news from home. Please Note, often this didn’t actually work out.

²A compilation of your favourite songs copied onto a blank cassette tape and played on a portable stereo known as a walkman. Mix-tapes provided a solution to the impracticalities of trying to carry your entire collection of music cassettes around with you in a backpack. Sadly the act of repetitively hearing the same 20-odd songs over and over again also usually caused any love or sentimental value held for said songs to disintegrate completely long before the time you got home.

³An extremely popular form of safely carrying your travel funds before international-linked ATMs became common place. Travellers exchanged hard cash for travellers’ cheques which could then be exchanged for money in the local currency at banks and money-exchange offices throughout the world. The main benefit being that if lost or stolen, the cheque-issuing company would give a full refund if provided with the original purchasing slip. Unfortunately most banks in more far-flung countries demanded that you show them the original purchasing slip while you were exchanging cheques. Thus meaning that many travellers kept their purchasing slip and cheques together for convenience annulling any possibility of claiming a refund if they were indeed robbed.

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This story was first published by Peregrine Magazine.

 

35 thoughts on “Turn off, plug out, drop in

  1. What a fantastically written article! I’m a hopeless romantic at heart and still revel in getting lost in the moment while travelling – whether it be staring at a sunset, watching fish while scuba diving, or getting enjoyably lost in the souks of Marrakech. The bugbear being, that I also get a kick out of sharing my experiences with others via Facebook, my blog, and most recently Twitter. It’s a daily dilemna for me and you expressed my mixed feelings perfectly!

  2. Brilliant post. I still remember the sound of dial-up like it was yesterday! Actually I feel exactly the same, it’s kind of depressing, I’ve never owned a Smartphone in my life til 2 weeks ago. Last year I traveled through Southeast Asia without one (actually I did have an old Nokia, but I lost that in the lao jungle and didn’t care one bit, whereas I’m sure if that was someone’s iPhone, they’d probably freak out and have to get a flight home)… Anyway I had the best time – that feeling of being completely detached from everything, and even though I’m a photographer too, I learned to go whole weeks without taking a single photo, and just enjoy the experience instead. Now I’m living a completely different life in Shanghai, China, and never did I imagine I would ever own a Smartphone! but now I have been forced to buy one because people say you can’t survive in this city without one, and unfortunately I found there to be a little truth in that. Shanghai is very different! I might get rid of the phone when I go traveling again though, too much of a liability haha. I miss just having my old Nokia.

  3. Couldn’t agree more with this post! When I’m travelling I normally stick the phone in my backpack and don’t look at it until the end of the day. Not having that thing in my pocket all day is such a freeing experience! And part of the reason I love to travel, to get away from it all and lose myself in a new environment. A sense of discovery and adventure is certainly being lost because there is so much information available at the touch of a button.

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  5. The ease of finding a 4/5-star rated place recommended by a 100 travelers on tripadvisor or hostelworld using a phone has ruined what was probably one of the chief highlights of my travels to any foreign country, which was finding myself in an unfamiliar city with nothing to go by except instinct and the genuine pleasure of sniffing out a good deal for a room. It’s amazing to find the no. of people rejecting perfectly good b&b’s or cafe’s just because they don’t have free wi-fi.

    I completely agree with everything you said in your post. Smartphones, tablets and laptops and other fancy gadgets only act as brick walls between you and a truly interesting outside world.

    • Here’s the solution: just put the phone away. I’ve just come back from a two month trip and 80% of my accommodation along the way was non-booked …just rocking up at the door of the pension and enquiring about prices the old way. It can still be done and you still get the best price this way. :)

  6. There is nothing like being in, to you, a very foreign country – in this case Dharamsala, India and watching the local video, only to discover that it is the movie “Jackie Brown” which takes place in Southern California, the place you just came thousands of miles from. Could not stop laughing at the delicious irony.

  7. I can SO relate. Great post. The last time I travelled internationally the internet & fax machines were just coming on the scene. Helpful yes, but the pressure from back home was something I resented in a way. I know loved ones are entitled to concern, but I travel for escape! AND not to see a fast food American chain on every block, which was also becoming prevalent in early 2000’s. I myself am semi-addicted iPhone hypocrite, but never in public. I’m nostalgic & romantic for the ‘old days’ of travel (in the 1980’s, Lol), & wonder now, if my wander-lust days are a thing of the past, literally & figuratively…It certainly would be a new & different type of exploration. :)

  8. This resonates so much with me. As a late 20-something all my friends reminisce about the times before we had (smart)phones or what our first memories of computers were. Unsurprisingly though we can’t let moments go undocumented on social media, because if we do, we feel like they haven’t happened!

    The USPS still offers general delivery (https://www.usps.com/manage/forward-mail.htm), which I’m hoping to use next year when I backpack the Appalachian Trail. I just have to hope they don’t close more post offices before then!!

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  10. Great post! Fascinating how quickly things have changed. In regards to footnote 2 – the thought of traveling with my walkman on my first overseas trip brings back such great memories! Despite being very tired of those songs on the trip, hearing them now would certainly transport me instantly to a smoke filled train in Europe, heading off somewhere new. Will have to track down those mix tapes.

  11. A great post. About to head off, and already missing the days when I first travelled, decades ago. I will taek a SmartPhone, but will be pleading “out of range” as often as possible. And surely one of the joys of travelling is finding things out for yourself, not trusting in the opinion of the crowd. If you want to do that, stay home and watch a documentary.

  12. Well put! Totally agree. When we lift up our heads and open our eyes to everything around us, we experience life most. Great piece, and well-written all around!

    I am starting to write articles about my adventures and discoveries around the world; you should check out my most recent post about breaking down in the middle of nowhere, being taken in by mango farmers, in a road side shack, without a phone, without Internet, and the time I spent getting to know these unbelievably generous people:

    http://mytefl.net/blog/teaching-in-taiwan-farmers-saved-us/

    You’d appreciate it, I think! ;)

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  14. This post resonated with me so much that I’ve used an excerpt and referenced your “About” page and “Contact” page. Thank you for sharing your wonderful writing. You speak to the heart of wanderlust. My very best to you, Renate

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  16. Nice piece. Enjoyed reading it. But as for myself, I’d stick to the middle path balancing between using and not using technology. I agree with most of what you’ve written in your article, and sure the travel guides such as lonely planet or tripadvisor-like websites and googlemaps ruin the mystery of the traveling. But I won’t ignore the advantage of having a phone in my pocket.

    Taking a photo and sharing it on social networks is not all that evil (if you’re not doing it all the time totally ignoring the world around you, of course). I do it, and mostly for my family and friends. My mom always dreamed of traveling but never had the chance (the time and the place were different), and for her now looking at pictures I take or reading short messages on Twitter or Facebook is somewhat visiting the place where I am at that point. And also keeps her away from being constantly worried about my well being.

    I’d say it should be balanced. Technology can be really helpful, but it shouldn’t totally occupy one’s mind while wandering.

  17. Exactly! As a traveller from this technology-crutch generation, it’s very hard to find the balance between using technology to ease travel and using technology instead of travelling! As handy as GPS-enabled phones and online reviews are, I can’t help but agree with your points on remembering the purpose of travel. Thank you for this piece!

  18. Agreed. Last night, got the chance to see Ronaldinho play and the first home goal since I moved to Querétaro. While the rest of my amigos took videos of the penalty kick in, I got to actually enjoy it and celebrate with the rest of the beer-chucking crowd, while everyone else had to settle for a replay.

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